Mangia e Bevi at Siena
by Deb Delasanta

One mild late spring evening some friends and I decided to check out Siena, Federal Hill's newest Italian restaurant.

Authentic Tuscan cuisine is Siena's specialty and the menu offers a full range of options for dining, from a full course dinner meal to late night bistro menu. The front dining room is lively and fun. Sit in lovely leopard skin chairs at the full service bar with its view of the kitchen, at one of the tables which all afford a view of energetic Atwells Avenue.

The rest of the front dining room is decorated tastefully with warm tans and soft melon colors. Chairs are comfortable and the tables are dressed with a tablecloth, linen napkins and candlelight.

We began the evening with a bottle of wine Castello Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva ($32) and Involitini di Melanzane ($8), an antipasto of pan-fried eggplant rolled with Prosciutto di Parma and herbed ricotta cheese, then oven-baked with San Marzano marinara sauce. The elegant combination is tasty and even though the restaurant was quite busy, the eggplant was served to us piping hot. We simply had to mop up that San Marzano sauce with the fresh Italian bread from our basket of assorted bread placed before us earlier.

Next we ordered the Panzanella ($8) to share and our thoughtful server brought it to us on not one but two plates with side dishes so everyone could have a taste. The salad is a colorful presentation of mixed field greens, red onion, vine-ripe tomatoes, goat cheese and crunchy Tuscan croutons tossed with a red wine vinaigrette dressing. We all agreed that the tomatoes were outstanding in their flavor, which is essential as they are the main attraction of this lovely salad.

In between courses while we chatted and people watched, we spotted Anthony and Chris Tarro coming out to greet guests and old friends.

Anthony and Chris own and manage Siena. The brothers were raised in Rhode Island, and their family has deep roots in the Italian-American community on Federal Hill.

Anthony's passion for food began at home watching his mother prepare meals for the family. He began working in food service in high school. He is a graduate of the RI School of Design's Culinary Arts Program and earned his bachelor's degree in Food Service Management from Johnson and Wales University. He has studied Tuscan cuisine in Bologna, Italy.

Anthony has spent 20 years mastering his specialty of Italian cuisine. His accomplishments include being honored as Chef of the Year by the Rhode Island Chapter of the American Culinary Federation and acting as chef for President George H. Bush on a visit to Rhode Island.

Chris shares his brother's passion. He too has spent the better part of his life working in food service. He is an accomplished businessman, specializing in the food and beverage industry. He holds a bachelor's degree in marketing from Syracuse University and received his MBA from the University of Maryland. He studied economics at the Bocconi University in Milan, Italy.

Siena evolved out of Anthony's ardor for Tuscan cuisine, which is fresh, simple and unfettered. Time spent in Italy has had a significant impact on Anthony and his brother Chris. The traditions of Tuscany have forever changed their conception of the art of the meal. The idea of translating these traditions to a modern American setting seemed very exciting to both. Hence, Siena's Tuscan Soul Food was born.

And soul food does adequately describe the entrees we decided upon. The first was Costoletta di Vitello ($28) a 16-ounce wood-grilled veal chop, tender and cooked to perfection in our case medium rare topped with coarsely chopped Crimini mushrooms and finished with a Crimini mushroom sherry and veal demi-glaze.

Being all meat lovers from childhood, we also ordered the Filetto di Maiale con Prosciutto ($18). Siena's pork loin is center cut and wrapped in Prosciutto di Parma, then grilled over hardwood charcoal and oven-finished in terra cotta earthenware with sage, thyme, white wine and tomatoes. The mild mix of herbs blended perfectly with the juicy meat (which was surprisingly, not overcooked) and tomatoes.

Both the veal chop and the pork loin were plated with green beans and a triangle slice of polenta. We ordered a side of Cime di Rapa ($4) that turned out to be a perfectly tart and succulent accompaniment to our entrees.

It is impossible to eat at an Italian restaurant and not finish the meal with gelato and limoncello, so we didn't even try. Especially upon learning that one of the specials of the evening was a chocolate hazelnut gelato served in a martini glass with chocolate sauce drizzled over it. Incredible! The limoncello was a fine treat too, although I like the way my friend serves hers better ice cold from the freezer!

Siena is a on its way to becoming one of the better restaurants and night spots in the city. Take a trip in and experience Tuscon Soul Food for yourself You will not be disappointed!

Siena is open Monday to Saturday from 4 p.m.; closed Sundays except certain holidays and for private parties. Reservations are accepted and recommended.

A late night bistro menu is available nightly after 10 p.m. The full service bar is open until 12 a.m. or later Monday - Thursday and until 2 a.m Friday and Saturday.

Complimentary valet parking is available nightly. Siena Restaurant, 238 Atwells Avenue, Providence, RI 02903. Phone: 401-521-3311; Fax: 401-521-3301; e-mail info@sienaprovidence.com.